Originally published @ GOTHAMIST | By Scott Lynch | Nov. 23, 2020 12:37 p.m.
Okay foodies it’s a go time .. let’s celebrate a hidden gem you may not know about:
Nene's Deli and Taqueria!
Scott Lynch / Gothamist | Picnic time in Maria Hernandez Park
The vinyl banner above the window reads "VM Electronic and Smartphone Repair." The swing sign boasts that they're an authorized agent for La Nacional. And painted big on the wall next to the front door? It's all about the barber shop. In other words, if you didn't know this tiny shop on Irving Avenue houses one of NYC's best new taquerias—and there have been a lot of them recently—it's unlikely you'd waltz in looking for a meal.
The place is called Nene's Deli and Taqueria, and it's owned and operated by Andrés Tonatiuh Galindo Maria, a young chef who grew up around the corner and spent the first part of his career at restaurants like Ai Fiori and Jean-Georges. Last February he left the latter to take a quick break and regroup at his family farm in Puebla, Mexico, and wound up spending six months down there, trapped by the pandemic. A miserable job market greeted him when he finally got back to the city—"even when there is a job, the money they're paying right now is terrible," he said—so when a landlord offered him this space on Irving, Galindo Maria decided what the hell and opened his own business.
Biggify for 👀 Food Pr0n 👀
Even when you're standing inside Nene's it's not abundantly clear that you can get a full array of prepared-to-order street food here. Honestly, at first glance it looks like a somewhat weary old bodega, the shelves semi-stocked with things like hot sauce, toiletries, and a random selection of chips, cookies, and big bags of candy. Ah, but there's the menu, a small chalkboard by the front door with one-word dish descriptors. For further clarification on anything, just ask whoever is behind the counter for details. Or just order away! Based on my feast last week, it seems like everything is delicious here, so you can't really go wrong.
That said, you're definitely at Nene's for the Birria, that sloppy, meaty stew of a tortilla stuffer that's turning up everywhere these days. Galindo Maria uses a spiced-up beef shank for his version, piled onto cheese-crusted, sauce-stained flour tortillas and topped with onion and cilantro. I had a couple of Birria Tacos--you can also get a Quesabirria, or a birria anything else—and they were terrific. Obviously spring for the side of consomé for dipping and sipping, to maximize your joy.
But so you know
… Nene's Deli Taqueria is located at 54 Irving Avenue, between Starr and Troutman Streets, and is currently open noon to 11 p.m. daily (347-789-5745; @nenestaqueria)
Give ‘em a shout, a visit, and a follow — HAPPY TACOS Y’ALL! HAPPY. TACOS.